BACK CORNER STUCK

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BACK CORNER STUCK

The best semi-pavement for every garden and yard situation

In the Gardens of Appeltern we have been working with semi-paved surfaces from the very beginning. A semi-paved surface, the name says it all, is only half hard. It is almost always built from pebbles, split or a mixture of gravel and loam.

WHY EVERYONE WANT HALF-PAPER?

Many gardeners are looking for a pavement that doesn’t look so final and cold. Paving of tiles or stones often looks harder and tighter than natural split or gravel.
You can always put plants or lay a cable in semi-paved surfaces. Moreover, it is much cheaper, especially for larger surfaces. The natural character and flexibility of semi-paved surfaces are the most important. Add to that the dozens of colors and rock variations, and you understand the popularity.

WHICH SEMI-PAPER SHOULD YOU CHOOSE?

Just like paving, there are also requirements for the usability of semi-paved surfaces. The choice of species is a matter of taste and use. If you’re talking about a layer of gravel or split on an anti-root cloth, almost every type is suitable. If you want to apply semi-pavement to a driveway that you have to cross with cars, it will be different again. You don’t want any ruts, you don’t want to have to rake every week and you also want a bit of stability so that you can easily cycle through and walk over it. Many pavers and landscaping companies have their own process. You can opt for an underlayer of crushed rubble and a top layer of split in the desired color. A disadvantage of such a construction is often the water permeability.

THEREFORE, BACKGROUND PADVAST IS THE BEST SEMI-PAPER

We admit it honestly. We at De Tuinen van Appeltern have also spent years looking for the best semi-paved pavement for the wide range of applications in our park. By chance we came across Achterhoeks Padvast from Hardeman from Veenendaal. It’s called Achterhoeks Padvast, because they had the same problem as us in the Achterhoek. The many gravel paths in the area were too dusty in the summer and not stable enough in the winter because the water didn’t recede. A gravel extraction from Netterden came up with the solution. By using only crushed gravel in a precisely composed grain size, the layer becomes stable, does not dust, allows water to pass through, does not freeze, you do not walk in and it looks wonderfully natural.

We have now applied several paths, terraces and squares with Padvast and really don’t want anything else. It is still important that you use the correct layer thickness for the application and that you take the preparations in the substrate seriously. It is best to consult an Appeltern Garden expert . The processing is not very difficult, but some precision is required. This is often also due to differences in soil situation and use.

COATING THICKNESS CALCULATION

  • Driveway and parking area layer thickness:
    On permeable soil first 20 cm of sand, then 25 cm Padvast.
  • Layer thickness terrace and occasionally a car:
    On permeable soil first 10 cm sand, then 15 cm Padvast.
  • Bus load layer thickness:
    On permeable soil first 20 cm of sand, above that on 35 cm Pad-proof.

The required amount of material is often calculated in tons. The formula is then; length x width x height x 2 = required tonnage. At 100m2 with a layer thickness of 15 cm you are talking about 30 tons.
If you want to know more about the influence of your choice of paving, please visit:

  • How to choose paving
  • How to design pavement

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT PADVAST

  1. Is there a risk of the material getting into it? The grit that sticks to the soles
    In fact, that risk is not there. Padvast does not contain a binding agent that is often found in other semi-paved surfaces. Padvast consists of broken gravel particles that hook into each other and therefore form a stable layer. Although the top layer consists of loose small stones, you only walk in if you have a wide profile in your shoe soles.
  2. How is the water permeability?
    It is normally very good. There is sufficient open space between the crushed gravel particles for the water to run down through. It then depends on the substrate whether water saturation does not occur at a certain moment. If the subsoil consists of heavy dense clay or recycled rubble fractions, you run that risk if it continues to rain for a long time. With everything it applies that you have to stick to the prescribed thicknesses of the Padvast layer.
  3. Is there a chance of weed growth on Padvast?
    Weeds can grow anywhere, but there must be some kind of nutrition for weed seeds to germinate. That food can be: dust that blows in from the environment, earth that you mess with plants, potting soil that you lose and also the soil from the adjacent borders, which washes over the Padvast during rain showers. Caution is advised, and you must ensure that the Padvast is always higher than the side borders. On a warm dry day, raking through the top layer every now and then with caution will prevent almost everything. But compared to other semi-paved types, the chance of weeds is relatively small.
  4. Is it necessary to work with edge closures?
    In a normal garden application of paths and open spaces, an edge closure is not necessary. Better not even. The plants grow from the border to the Padvast and naturally hang over it. Conversely, the Padvast already ‘sticks’ to each other and is sufficiently held in place by the adjacent soil.
    If you use Padvast in driveways, it can be practical to make a confinement depending on the width. Finally, the application also simply remains a choice of taste.
  5. Is there a chance that garden chairs with their thin legs sink through the Padvastlayer?
    There really isn’t that chance. If the Padvast has been applied in the right layer and compacted after installation, it has become a kind of stable plate that you cannot sink through with a chair.

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